CHRONIXX AND PROTOJE LIVE @ ALEXANDRA PALACE 11.11.2018
By lizzy brown
“Who can forsee what spark might ignite the fuse?”
(H.I.M)
It was a damp and drizzly Sunday evening in May 2017 that Chronixx and Zincfence Redemption Band last performed in the UK. The concert, which was completely soul’d out, took place in the landmark Grade II listed Art Deco style building that is the 02 Academy, Brixton.
The iconic South London music venue, had played host to the final leg of the hugely successful ‘Chronology’ tour with 5,000 dedicated reggae fans in attendance.
Fast forward to 2018. Sunday November 11, 2018: 11.11.2018 to be exact, where Chronixx returns to London for a one night only gig. This time, north of the river to Alexandra Palace also known as ‘The People’s Palace’ or ‘Ally Pally’ as it is fondly called by locals. The venue which is also a Grade II listed building, has a standing only capacity of 10,000. And every single ticket for the show was soul’d out at least a week before.
This will be my first visit there and I was jittery with nerves and brimming with excitement all at the same time. I had planned my day so meticulously that I barely slept the night before. Camera gear, travel arrangements, pass confirmations. Nothing could afford to go wrong.
I arrive at Wood Green station which is about a 30 minute walk away from the venue. I scan the area around me which is buzzing with activity. There’s a palpable sense of excitement in the air. I can almost taste it. Without further delay, I hurriedly start to make my way up the hill with a throng of people and head towards the nearest bus stop. I’ve been told that there’s a special shuttle service taking people up the hill but I jump on the first W3 route bus I see as time is ticking away.
The bus is heaving and heavy with people anxious to get moving. Then – all of a sudden people start shouting: “It’s a Chronixx bus, it’s a Chronixx bus – let us of off!” I look behind me and sure enough there are a string of traditional red London double decker buses with the route sign changed to read: CHRONIXX in sparkling gold letters. I mean wow, wow, just…WOW
I stay where I am with the few passengers remaining and sit back as the driver makes the slow journey towards the venue. Traffic is thick and cars are lined up illegally all along the route. People were knocking down traffic restriction signs and parking their cars in the restricted areas. Never have I had an experience like this in London. The fans were willing to risk it all.
At some point I make an executive decision to hop off the bus. Traffic is at stand still and i need to get moving. I join what seems to be hundreds of people walking up the hill. It’s beginning to feel like a pilgrimage and this walk our journey to Mecca.
I eventually arrive at the palace, exhausted from the steep walk and sweating from the exertion of fighting against gravity. I paused to catch my breath as I gaze on at the gloriously wonderful yet imposing piece of Victorian architectural splendour. As I look around, I’m mesmerised by the breathtaking panorama of the city below, covered in a sea of twinkling lights. My daughter who had now joined me says: “Mum – what does this view remind you of?” Of course, I smile knowingly. it could only be one vista: “Skyline Drive babe.”
If you’ve ever been to Skyline Levels or Kingston Dub Club you’ll get the reference. And if you haven’t – then the view up by Ally Pally at night is as close as you’re going to get.
I walk through Palm Court as I recall this is where I need to be to access the main entrance to The Great Hall where the show is actually taking place. What I saw before me the closer I approached was what looked like an extraordinarily long train looping itself around the Palace. But this was no train. This was people. Hundreds and thousands of them pulsating to the music emanating from inside, shrouded in an intoxicating cocktail of fragrant smoke wafting from the jerk pans as well as from the herbs man. Clearly – everybody wanna feel irie.
Making my way to the press area was quite a sensory experience in itself. The energy from the fans was so strong, electric even. Enough electricity to say…start a fyah? It would not be the first time a fire blazed through this palace and tonight I felt that history could repeat itself. Metaphorically of course…
I bypass the fans and collect my press pass. It’s taken much longer than anticipated to get to this point and I have already missed the warm up sounds of Silverstar and only manage to catch the tail end of Allan Brando. But by the looks of things they did an outstanding job as usual, as the audience seemed to having a great time grooving and singing along to the selections.
As I positioned myself in the press pit, checking my gear and making sure I actually had my glasses with me, I realise that by now the venue is corked and the fans are hyped. The stage is absolutely huge in depth and width and I wondered if the artistes and their bands might get lost in the vastness of it all.
It’s now around 7:45 or so and The Indiggnation Band begin to bring their equipment on stage and start to set up. Familiar faces like Zuggu, Monty, Kongz and Bassy and Paris begin to stroll on to the stage. This raises the levels of anticipation through the roof for the arrival of Protoje. Which reminds me – I must put in my earplugs. Standard if you don’t want your eardrums blown out by the speakers and high pitched screaming fans.
Finally, Yannick, Proto’s Creative Director arrives in the pit for the camera show and signals to me that it’s only a matter of time before Protoje aka ‘King Digg’ aka ‘Diggy British’ is gonna pounce on the stage.
The wait is not long. The ever energetic backing singers Keiko Smith and Rae Nicole wearing ‘A Matter of Time’ black bombers skank on to the stage from stage left and right signalling the imminent arrival of Proto. The ever stylish King Digg bounds on to the palace stage to the frenzied screams of his loyal subjects. His look for the night, styled by ‘garment selecta’ Ayishat Akanbi – a deep burgundy red two piece suit by London workwear fashion brand M.C.Overalls, is complemented by Air Jordan tennis shoes, signature hat and glasses finish that complete a very carefully thought out ensemble. Big up Diggy for supporting grassroots British brands!
The set commences with the reverential I & I, the 2nd track from his 2013 album ‘The 8 Year Affair’ which has everyone singing in unison waving their Rasta flags and feeling emotional. Ok – I was emotional. I always have such a swell of feels when I hear this track and looking at the audience, I think it pretty much had the same effect on them too.
“Ites I a gwaan hold, a love we living in
I and I a pass through, greetings I bring again
Ites I a gwaan hold, a love we living in
I and I a pass through, greetings I bring again”
From his musical bag, Proto then pulls out the militant ‘Flames’ – the first track from 2018’s ‘A Matter of Time’ (AMOT) album which features Chronixx recorded on the hook. In the background, stunning digital visuals by Jamaican artist and designer Taj Francis are projected on to a huge screen further enhancing the musical experience of the fans.
“Oh, look at how dem want us fighting
Distracted wid advertising
Control the brain with all the choices
An’ now them waan control ganja prices
Not a bomboclaat as long as I live
I blaze free, dem cyaan supply dis”
We then go back a few years to 2015 for a rendition of ‘Protection’ featuring Mortimer (in absentia) which is the first track from the ‘Ancient Future’ album.
Now bearing in mind both Chronixx and Mortimer did not appear for the aforementioned tracks, fans could be forgiven for not expecting Sevana to appear live on stage for the next track to be sung: ‘Sudden Flight’
However, at around 8:30 pm, emerging from stage left like an autumn leaf floating on the evening breeze is…Sevana. With majestic braids cascading over a cream toned, cropped bomber jacket, I cannot help but once again be absolutely mesmerised by this talented young woman. Flawless vocals showed maturity and unwavering confidence and she immediately forged a connection with the audience as they sang with her word for word on ‘Sudden Flight’
Protoje then segued into track 4 from AMOT: ‘Like This’
“Now this one is called ‘Like this’ and I know, I know it.
And you know, I know, you know it.
I wanna see everybody moving from left to right and see what we spark as we move forward – let’s go!”
This is where I had to put down my camera and join Protoje and the fans in the crowd with the chorus for this tune. It’s one of my personal favourites from the album.
Monty then stepped up to give a stunning guitar solo which thrilled the crowd.
Then, when Zuggu stepped forward from the shadows, guitar left behind, the feminine energy in the crowd seemed to up a level when he sang into the mic:
“And she didn’t know how to tell him
She was in love with a Rasta man
Fire was burnin’ and burning
To let out what she was holding in”
Of course, fans are aware that this is Kymani Marley’s verse from ‘Rasta Love’ (Seven Year Itch)
Homage is paid in between verses to Buju Banton by Proto with a few verses from ‘Champion’ again with Zuggu harmonising in the background. With a nod to Tanto Metro and Devonte ‘Everyone falls in Love’ and his hugely popular love song ‘Bout Noon’ neatly sandwiched in between both the crowd are thoroughly delighted.
Moving in with what seemed to be a never ending stream of surprises for the evening, Protoje asked a question:
“Whe di yout’ from the West End?”
“Whe di yout’ from the Western?”
I hear someone scream out “no wayyyyyyyy” as by now we all know what’s up. I can hear the all too familiar vocals emerging from stage right of Haile. With his perfectly groomed dreadlocks swinging past his waist – the vocalist of WSTRN swaggered confidently on to the stage.
No one could have anticipated that two members of the group – Haile and Loui Rei would be gracing the stage that night. And you better believe everyone was singing every lyric to their most recent hit the very provocative party anthem ‘Ben Ova’
“Seh mi gwan guh party (party)
Naughty naughty (ee)
Dem ah gwan like dem wan’ guh pass me (pass me)
But they naughty naughty (ee)”
After more than an hour of solid back to back music, Protoje’s set was coming to an end. A projection of the serene illustration of Emperor Selassie as used in the visuals for ‘Hail Rastafari’ appeared majestically on the screen.
I wonder what Queen Victoria would have to say if she knew one day the true King of Kings was watching over his subjects in ‘The People’s Palace’…
“Because we know Jah, we cannot walk away
Heart of the Lion is telling us not to stay far
‘Cos when it all passes away
To abide in Your presence is the only thing I pray for
‘Cos it is beautiful to know
Storms all around and You safely guide the way home
Yes, You lightening my load
Keep me right here on the straight road”
The set ended with ‘Kingston Be Wise’ another hit from The 8 Year Affair. A subtle reminder to fans I believe of how extensive his catalogue is and that he is an OG in this game.
During the band change I take opportunity to get off my feet for half an hour and retreat to a quiet area until the next segment of the show. Thankfully with the power of social media, I can observe what’s happening while I’m away from the crowd via insta stories etc;
Realising that Chronixx is probably on stage, I head back out and aim to work my way through the crowd to get back to the pit. But I was in for a shock. Somehow – in just over ½ an hour, the crowd had swollen and expanded to every crevice and corner of The Great Hall. I literally have to ram my way through just to get back to the stage area!
From where am, I can hear but not see Hector ‘Roots Percussionist’ Lewis introducing the band:
“We are Chronixx and The zincfence Redemption right here in London!”
In the background,I crane my neck to see the screen illuminate with a scene of a rising sun. All around, arms are raised as high as possible, the record buttons on smartphones are activated, the glow of their screens creating an ethereal effect like a blanket of fireflies spread across the hall. For every twang of the guitars and bass, for every knock of the drum and every strike of the keys, there is a gradual crescendo in the music. The fans are in frenzied anticipation of Chronixx’s appearance. Their burning desire to see and hear him builds to an explosive climax when he finally jogs on to the stage. With arms outstretched to his sides, and after some posturing he declares:
“RASTAFARI!”
With a Twelve Tribe tams securing his dreadlocks, a loose fitting olive green pullover draped over his torso and layered underneath with a blood red string vest and black trousers – Chronixx is the embodiment of all youth who have their finger firm on the pulse of fashion.
No more was this more evident than the crepes that wrapped his feet: a pair of black Comme des Garcons PLAY x Converse Chucks with the CDG signature of a playful, red heart motif to the outside.
After fighting my way through the quicksand of people, I’m finally able to position myself where I need to be. By this time, Chronixx is centre stage, he is the conductor and his fans are his choir.
He launches into the reverential intro track from 2014’s seminal ‘Dread and Terrible Project’ – Alpha and Omega :
“Never gonna stop until my people are free
As it was in the beginning, so shall it be
In the last days when the youths them a pree
Dread and terrible!”
Chronixx then dips into his musical bag and goes back in time to pull out several crowd favourites one after the other: The ever emotive ‘They don’t know’. The now classic strugglers anthem ‘Ain’t no giving in’ He then pulls us back to the present with ‘Spanish Town Rockin’ from his Grammy nominated ‘Chronology’ album. I look around and everybody is grooving to this sweet reggae music tonight, everybody is feeling nice.
Two further tracks from the same album are pulled out. With vocals as smooth as silk, Chronixx skilfully captures the hearts of all the ladies in the audience with track 10: ‘Majesty’ – a genuine love song in every sense of the word. Once again his audience acts as his backing singers responding organically to every verse. And when he hits the falsetto notes….You’re my queen / majesty pure musical magic.
“Do you love reggae music? Do you love reggae musicccc?”
The band now quietens just for a moment with the exception of Hector now knocking his drum sticks together.
The band begin to play the rhythm for the soul liberating and spirit uplifting ‘Skankin Sweet’. Air horns, lighters, illuminated phones, whistles and screams bounce off the walls and ceiling of the hall. Chronixx is centre stage…skanking…skankin’ sweet. I actually cannot focus through the lens of my camera for a moment as I am now overwhelmed by the positive and healing energy this song brings. I put down my gear for a moment and join the fans in singing my heart out to what has become an anthem for so many all around the world. Chronixx invites us into his musical world where everyone of us has a seat at the table. We are all one with the music.
Adopting a more sombre manner, he now segues into ‘Black is Beautiful’ a song which GQ magazine last year described as a “modern black power anthem” The audience erupts into a volcanic rumble when he sings:
“Woi…Black eye, black hair, black skin
Black queen stand majestic with the black king
Today I’ll sing you a black song, you need to hear about beautiful black things.”
Following on from the anthemic ‘I can’ through to ‘Smile Jamaica’ and on to ‘Capture Land’ I’m reminded of what an impressive catalogue of outstanding songs Chronixx has amassed in his relatively short musical career. If it was not for the 11pm curfew – I think we really could be in the Palace rocking all night long!
Versatility is Chronixx’s middle name so it’s no surprise that an old school dancehall freestyle is thrown into the mix – much to the delight of his fans and the band too:
“We come fi warn di ghetto youths
Bout all di choice dem a mek
Dem fi know dem cyaan tek natty fi fool
Cah we go a Rastafari school”
The dancehall flow continues with a nod to 80’s female icon, the legendary Shelly Thunder with Chronixx singing ‘Sorry’
If you’re a dancehall fan you could be forgiven for thinking this Tracy Chapman cover was actually Thunders original track. And I really wonder if anyone in the audience even knows or cares. I think not.
Chronixx brings out one of two unbilled but very special musical guests.
First up is singer and musician Mikayla Simpson but you may know her as Koffee aka ‘Koffee Banton’ as dubbed by Chronixx. Now, I first saw and heard Koffee last year live on stage at Wickie Wackie Fest in Jamaica. I was so impressed then and I’m super impressed now. She shares some parallels with Chronixx. She too is from Spanish Town and she too is already making big musical waves at the tender age of 18.
With the classic Real Rock Riddim pulsating in the background, Koffee enters the stage and leaps into the arms of Chronixx who hands her the mic to take command of the audience.
At just 5ft tall, she is not to be underestimated. She likkle but she Tallawah and is undaunted by the vast crowd in front of her. Koffee belts out her signature rapid fire lyrics for her two most popular songs ‘Burning’ and ‘Ragamuffin’ which are both well received by the crowd with air horns and whistles.
Second guest on stage is Chronicle, Chronixx’s father and established, well known dancehall master. The original ‘tall lacatan’. Stylishly dressed in a full suit of white, dark glasses and a white Chronixx baseball cap – Chronicle is the original dancehall dada. The admiration and pride Chronixx has for his Dad is obvious in the huge smile on his face and the way he watches him handle the stage and the audience.
The two proceed to duet on a mash-up of Chronicle’s 1996 Bobby Konders produced track ‘Three Women In My Life’ on the ‘Diseases’ riddim. However, tonight the track was sung over the ‘Real Rock’ riddim.
In the next segment of the show, Protoje joins Chronixx on the stage for their collaborative hit from 2014 – ‘Who Knows’ and one thing is certain- every single person in the venue knows the lyrics and joins in to prove it.
“Now introducing from Jamaica I and I breddrin…
Run the music…
Big up Protoje-ay”
It is a joy to see these lions roaring on stage again and the mutual respect and admiration is evident and genuine.
“Ayy Chronixx – we a gi dem a dancehall style
Hands up for Jamaica like this”
Both artists are vibing off each others energy and King Digg is spitting some machine gun fire freestyle flow. They both are jumping in unison, the crowd is jumping in unison, Rasta flags waving, the walls of the Palace are shaking and all of a sudden the Chron Dada whips off his tam.
Dreadlocks the colour of the night sky cascade like a waterfall across his shoulders, and swirl down into his back, resting between his shoulder blades. If ever there was a visual metaphor for growth – this is it.
I sense the show is drawing to a close and I am right. ‘Here comes a trouble’ is given the dub treatment and a nod to his sistren Jah9 with a rendition of her 2013 track ‘Reverence’
“I hold the king
closest to I heart
The words I sing
Must honour HIM
With reverence
I life is set apart
With joy unparalleled
The kingdom is where
I seek to dwell”
Keeping the high energy levels up for ‘Likes’ you can barely hear his voice over the 10000 fans singing at the top of their lungs.
Chronixx finally takes the energy levels to a more spiritual level with his closing song ‘Legend’
With his own likeness and that of his legion of followers projected onto multi screens in the background the message here is simply one of unity and respect for one another.
It was particularly touching and emotional as he asks everyone to put their lights in the air as he makes special mention of the Grenfell Tower victims.
And so, as the curtains close on what has to be the best concert of 2018, Chronixx parts way with us with one final declaration and it is this:
“One Love”
I say this every time I attend a Chronixx or Protoje concert but…it’s true. I once again feel honoured and privileged to have been part of what surely will go down to be a historic event in the annals of reggae’s musical history.
We wish all the artistes and their teams all the best as they continue on their various musical journeys. A special thanks to two of the most hardworking women in the game Alex and Saffy – don’t say a word.
Except for event poster & song lyrics – report and photos – lizzy brown / aka eye and i / @iameyeandi / disyahreggaemusic.tumblr
Chronixx: visit www.chronixx.com for all tour dates and current information on the artiste. Chronology is available on all major platforms
Protoje: visit visit www.protoje.com for all tour dates and current information on the artiste. A Matter of Time is available on all major platforms
Sevana: visit www.sevanasiren.com for all tour dates and current information on the artiste. Her EP ‘Sevana’ is available on all major platforms
Koffee: @teamkoffee her latest single ‘Toast’ is available now on all major platforms.
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